House Hunters International

Once at home in a 2,000 square foot Queen Anne-style house with fenced yard, our family of four is downsizing in order to make our dreams of living abroad come to life. After spending a week exploring the neighborhoods of Chiang Mai, we have selected the Nimmanhaemin neighborhood. It’s full of bars, restaurants, hotels and community work spaces. It is touristy, but also home to digital nomads and expats. There are also a huge number of McMansions in the suburbs that are much, much cheaper than the centrally-located condos. While Nimmanhaemin (or Nimman as it is called) is more expensive than other areas, the proximity of this neighborhood to the city center allows us to experience all that Chiang Mai has to offer without the need for a car. Therefore, we are limiting our search to condos or townhomes with American facilities (no squat toilets for us!)

Our wish list includes:

  • Over 50 sq meters (500 square feet)
  • 2+ bedrooms
  • Close to the city center
  • Walking distance to a grocery store
  • Partially or Fully-Furnished
  • Community area
  • Pool
  • Under $1000/mo
  • View

Property Number 1: The Oldie but Goodie

Located in the heart of the Nimman neighborhood, this condo is the largest of the properties that we’ve seen at 110 square meters (1184 square feet). It is an old, slightly musty building, with no common area and no swimming pool. It has 2 large bedrooms with closets, 2 full bathrooms, and American-style kitchen complete with oven and plenty of storage space. It has real hardwood floors and kitchen table for 6. The highlight of this property is it’s immense size, and stunning view. It is on the 9th floor and looks out over the entire Nimman neighborhood, as well as the entire city skyline. The condo has large windows in every room and a patio with deck chairs for lounging. It would also provide enough space to host out-of-town visitors and has access to a nearby pool with a moderate fee. The railing for the patio is somewhat short, leading one to prohibit any small children from even looking at the patio, let alone ever venturing out onto it. (The patio doors could be double locked.) Listed for 28,000 baht or $860/mo.

Property #2: Far-out Farang (That’s Thai for Foreigner)

This 60 sq meter (645 sq foot) condo is found in a cement lego brick-like fortress, complete with security guards and key-code entry. With 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, and community area with pool, gym and green space, it meets 99% of our wish list. It has a pool ready to host the most epic of spring-break parties, and being one of probably 10,000 condos in the area, it probably does from time to time. The downside, (in addition to the cookie-cutter nature of this unit) is that it is located approximately a 10-15 drive to the city center. There is near a suburban mall and some shops, but not the cultural center or university that we had hoped for. A taxi to our prefered neighborhood of Nimman costs about 100 baht or $3. The unit that is available is on the 7th floor and has a view of a massive construction zone with multiple cranes. This condo is listed for 22,000 baht or $675/mo.

Property #3: Cute but Cramped Condo

This condo is on the 4th floor of a modern complex. It’s a corner unit (which might save any relationships that we had hoped to have with our neighbors due to screaming children.) It is small at 60 sq meters (645 square feet) and has 2 bedrooms and 1 bathroom. Forget any plans of cooking in the nearly non-existent kitchen or any privacy due to the tiny footprint of this unit. On the plus side, it does have tons of natural light and floor to ceiling windows in each of the rooms. The condo complex also has a large pool and an astoturf play area (which sounds lame but is actually really nice in a place that rains daily and has clouds of mosquitoes that live in real grass.) Not to be forgotten are the sauna, large covered lobby, security, and small gym. Like Property #1, it is centrally-located in the neighborhood of Nimman and is 28,000 baht or $860/mo.

HELP US DECIDE WHERE TO LIVE! TAKE OUR POLL

Bandon with Babies

Safe and warm in our cozy hotel, the kids and I stopped reading our books and headed to the window to look out. Below us the endless waves crashed furiously against the beach rocks and the rain pelted down. No one in their right mind would go out in this storm. Not even the seagulls braved the wind and the rain. But then in the distance, we could see it. A small, weaving figure floating across the sand. It was my husband and father of my children…bold, intrepid, some might say, idiotic. He was not going to be deterred by this downpour. He had dreamed of riding a fat-tired bike across the beach, and God willing, he was going to do it. He came closer, and of course we cheered and hoorayed and stoked his ego for daring to do what no other human around was willing to. He did a wheelie, rode next to the waves, pumped his fist at us and then rode on, and we went back to reading our books by the fireplace. That’s Ben-he’s the crazy to my mellow and the rabble-rouser to my rule follower.

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Ben riding fat tire bike on the beach

We took the fam to Bandon Brewing Co. for dinner after Ben thawed his frozen digits with a long, hot bath. It’s always a struggle to keep the kids occupied while out to dinner but the kids were mesmerized by the pizza throwing at this place. The entertainment was top notch. They had a ‘viewing area’ for the pizza tossers which delighted the kids. The chef brought over kid sized balls of dough and taught them how to throw it. Although the distinction between pizza dough and play-dough is vague, throwing something messy in the air is not.

"Making" pizza at Bandon Brewing Company
“Making pizza” at Bandon Brewing Company

Lucky for us, the weather finally cleared a bit the next day and we were able to explore the tide pools and surrounding beach area. It was a freezing walk but we saw a beautiful rainbow, splashed through a few puddles in our rain boots and got to see the amazing sand labyrinth that local artists construct on the beach. Unfortunately, the kids were in meltdown mode by the time we got to the labyrinth so I didn’t take any pictures. Here’s a link to their website though with photos and draw schedule–Circles in the Sand.

Overall, I’d say bring your babies to Bandon if you are content to remain indoors and view the wild ocean from a distance…or…save the journey for a weekend when the weather is nice. Bandon–we’ll be back.

THINGS WE WOULD LIKE TO DO NEXT TIME:

  1. Hike the Bandon dunes
  2. Tour the lighthouse
  3. Pet tigers at The West Coast Game Park (it was closed this time due to the rain)
  4. Take a polar plunge in the ocean — Ben only, no one else is crazy enough to do this
  5. Build sandcastles and driftwood forts on the beach