Budapest or Bust

We jumped into the car, one by one, until all eight of us were seated. It only took 15 minutes. Each of the four kids vied for a place, next to the window, next to their mom, not in the back seat, not in the middle, not in THAT car seat. It was a miracle that it only took 15 minutes. And just when we were ready to leave, one of the adults forgot a phone and had to run back inside for it.

Sara and I are best friends from junior high school and Ben and Nate are also childhood friends. Sara and Nate married, had two children and moved from Oregon to Poland–although not in that order. We decided to visit them in Poland, on a whim and on the verge of our own move abroad. Now there we were, two families who have known each other for years, trapped in one large van as we prepared to drive across four countries from Krakow to Budapest. When we planned this little vacation within a vacation, I had pictured something like National Lampoon’s European Vacation, complete with car breakdowns, kids peeing their pants, freaky hitchhikers and many traffic violations. I had really high hopes of strife and misadventure.

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Once fully loaded and buckled, we drove off through the Polish countryside. The kids settled into their seats and read books. They colored for hours, shared their iPads, ate a million snacks, napped, and sang songs. The adults got to have meaningful conversation and even nod off themselves for brief naps. This was definitely not the trip I imagined, nor was it even close to the road trips that I had been on in the past. In my youth, I had totaled a rental car in Maui by backing into a metal mailbox, I had driven on the wrong side of the road intermittently for 10 days in New Zealand, and my tour bus ran over a dog in Bali. I once stopped for gas in Bavaria and was groped by a toothless, homeless man; and I got food poisoning and crapped my pants in a bus in Borneo. I was ready for some shit to hit the fan. (Pun intended.)

This drive to Budapest may have been the most mundane road trip that I had ever been on. It took nearly twice as long as the interwebs said because one kid or another always had to pee. But even that’s not bad. In fact, the entire trip went off without a hitch. I relished the idea that we would have some misfortune to make this vacation more memorable, but in reality, I had researched all of the unknowns. I had planned for all of the contingencies. In the event that I had forgotten something, Sara-my fellow mother and hardcore planner- had it covered. Unlike the travels of my youth, I had the knowledge, credit card fund availability and insurance to solve just about any problem. What had happened to that carefree, wild girl that I used to be? Had that part of me died when I became a mother? That thought was enough to send me into a mild depression.

However, I looked over at our kids just as those disappointing thoughts started to creep in. They stared out of the van window and saw castle ruins on the hilltops and I realized that every single thing here was new to them. I was 15 years old the first time that I left the United States and saw things like grand palaces, double-decker buses, and topless sunbathing. My son turned 3 in London and my daughter had flown across the Atlantic before she could walk. They don’t need a safety-third event to make this trip memorable. I know that they are too young to remember the details but their perceptions of church and religion are being founded in massive cathedrals. They see famous art in person. They learn to ride bikes on cobblestone streets. Their language is accentuated with foreign words and phrases. They get to experience all of it with both of their parents and that is worth any misgivings I have about not having some outrageous adventure.

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Back in the van, the kids yelled with excitement as we passed through the Buda tunnel and emerged in the heart of the city, the funicular to the castle on our right and the lions guarding the Chain Bridge straight ahead. I’m not sure if it was their enthusiasm or the anticipation I had for seeing a new city for the first time but the mood in the van reached a feverish pitch. We shouted out all the things we saw as we passed under the bridge: the Parliament Building, the Castle on the hilltop, boats, roundabouts, Liberty Statue. This was moment that would be etched in our collective memories. Having a sketchy drive across Central Europe, exploring the Buda Castle Labyrinth, getting drunk on Palinka at the ruin bars and scuba diving in the thermal springs can wait a few more years, and I’m ok with that.

 

Bandon with Babies

Safe and warm in our cozy hotel, the kids and I stopped reading our books and headed to the window to look out. Below us the endless waves crashed furiously against the beach rocks and the rain pelted down. No one in their right mind would go out in this storm. Not even the seagulls braved the wind and the rain. But then in the distance, we could see it. A small, weaving figure floating across the sand. It was my husband and father of my children…bold, intrepid, some might say, idiotic. He was not going to be deterred by this downpour. He had dreamed of riding a fat-tired bike across the beach, and God willing, he was going to do it. He came closer, and of course we cheered and hoorayed and stoked his ego for daring to do what no other human around was willing to. He did a wheelie, rode next to the waves, pumped his fist at us and then rode on, and we went back to reading our books by the fireplace. That’s Ben-he’s the crazy to my mellow and the rabble-rouser to my rule follower.

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Ben riding fat tire bike on the beach

We took the fam to Bandon Brewing Co. for dinner after Ben thawed his frozen digits with a long, hot bath. It’s always a struggle to keep the kids occupied while out to dinner but the kids were mesmerized by the pizza throwing at this place. The entertainment was top notch. They had a ‘viewing area’ for the pizza tossers which delighted the kids. The chef brought over kid sized balls of dough and taught them how to throw it. Although the distinction between pizza dough and play-dough is vague, throwing something messy in the air is not.

"Making" pizza at Bandon Brewing Company
“Making pizza” at Bandon Brewing Company

Lucky for us, the weather finally cleared a bit the next day and we were able to explore the tide pools and surrounding beach area. It was a freezing walk but we saw a beautiful rainbow, splashed through a few puddles in our rain boots and got to see the amazing sand labyrinth that local artists construct on the beach. Unfortunately, the kids were in meltdown mode by the time we got to the labyrinth so I didn’t take any pictures. Here’s a link to their website though with photos and draw schedule–Circles in the Sand.

Overall, I’d say bring your babies to Bandon if you are content to remain indoors and view the wild ocean from a distance…or…save the journey for a weekend when the weather is nice. Bandon–we’ll be back.

THINGS WE WOULD LIKE TO DO NEXT TIME:

  1. Hike the Bandon dunes
  2. Tour the lighthouse
  3. Pet tigers at The West Coast Game Park (it was closed this time due to the rain)
  4. Take a polar plunge in the ocean — Ben only, no one else is crazy enough to do this
  5. Build sandcastles and driftwood forts on the beach